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Costs of War and Militarism |
Bomb Gown
Megan
demands all our attention as she blasts down the runway, confident and
powerful, in this breath-taking megaton outfit. From afar you can
see her beautiful smoke clouds, but don’t let her fool you. She is
danger incarnate.
Her instant blast,
fire, and radioactive dust can destroy life in seconds. And her
long-term effects, including cancers and “jelly fish” babies, are also
deadly. That gas mask is just for show.
In
her 1945 debut, codenamed “Fat Man”, she killed over 90,000 people in
Hiroshima and 3 days later, as “Little Boy”, another 60,000 in
Nagasaki.
Hopefully,
her awesome power will one day be a thing of the past. In April 2010,
President Obama and Russian President Medvedev took the next steps
toward nuclear disarmament.
She
looks a bomb in that dress. But say “Goodbye” to her because her
destructive force has no place in a secure and sustainable future.
Model: Megan Neil, designers Megan Neil and Gwyn Kirk |
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Don’t Ask/Don’t Tell
It may look
like standard issue Army green, but from Tony’s point of view, he’s
wearing camouflage. For the men and women of the armed services
who are gay or lesbian, every day is a day of enforced silence, a day
of denial of their full identity. They serve bravely while being
denied the equality and recognition they deserve. The “Don’t Ask,
Don’t Tell” policy requires that our soldiers lie about who they are.
Since
1993, more than 13,500 American troops have been discharged from the
military under this policy at an estimated cost of over $400
million. Those discharges include more than 800 specialists:
linguists, pilots, engineers, doctors, nurses and combat medics. They
were not discharged because of poor performance, but because of their
sexual orientation.
The tombstone of Leonard Matlovich, a gay Vietnam Veteran reads:
“When I was in the military, they gave me a medal for killing two men and a discharge for loving one.”
79%
of people polled in 2007 were in favor of repealing this policy. Now,
President Obama, Secretary of Defense Robert Gates, and former Vice
President Dick Cheney are all on record as saying that it should be
changed. Model: Tony Tunzat, Designer: Susan Cundiff.
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military carbon footprint
The
US Military is #1: the biggest emitter of greenhouse gas, the largest
consumer of energy and fossil fuel, and the largest polluter in the
world. The military uses 2 million gallons of oil a day for vehicles
and facility maintenance alone. 50% of military energy consumption goes
to fueling jet planes. The US military is the largest land user in the
world with 1,000 bases worldwide and 70% of them in other countries.
Photo: Ricky Chung. Model: Deborah Lee. Outfit: Annie Fukushima. |
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militarized federal budget
The
camouflage jacket represents 50% of the federal budget devoted to the
military, $738 billion in 2009. The skirt shows the other 50%,
earmarked for civilian needs: blue for health, red for energy, yellow
for transportation etc. Underneath the military budget, the corporate
flag indicates profits made by Pentagon contractors. More military
money is tucked between the pleats: the VA in the health budget,
Homeland Security in transportation, NASA and nuclear weapons research
in the energy budget. Uncle Sam's hat hides billions of dollars
financing the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. Photo: Ricky Chung. Model:
Ellen-Rae Cachola. Design: Christine Ahn and Sarah Shanley |
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The Future of War?
Kelsey's
outfit straddles two worlds -- digital and human. Her wire-bound arms
represent humanity's growing dependence on the computer age and on
electricity. Wires move from the tips of her fingers to her face,
showing the connection and interdependence of human and computer
brains.
If war is allowed to continue, will
warfare become increasingly digital with the distinction between
humanity and machinery fading into an electric blur?
Already,
unmanned drones—computer operated missiles—are programmed to locate and
destroy targets in Pakistan. This technology protects U.S.
soldiers from risk of injury and death. The programmers are safe in
Nevada AND on the front line at the same time. If the drones
malfunction and destroy a wedding party by mistake, who is responsible?
In future, will the digital world be as
important as the human world or is it already becoming a dominant form
of existence? Model and Designer: Kelsey Stilson
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People's budget
This
3-piece cotton outfit remakes the military budget to meet people's
needs. There are many pockets of money--for college, health care,
renewable energy, good public transit, affordable homes, parks and
gardens, filling in potholes, cleaning up trash, for drug treatment,
AIDS research, community centers, care for everyone who needs care.
There's money for poetry, music, theater, dance painting and everything
you can imagine needed to live in peace and with justice. Photo Araceli
Curiel. Model: Sandra Schwartz. Outfit: Gwyn Kirk.
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war is not sexy
Genevie
is wearing a sexy above-the-knee Army green dress representing the
recruiters’ subliminal message that war is sexy. The jewels on her
chest are like medals -- for courage and honor -- suggesting to a smart
young woman that she will be respected and valued. The gold bracelets
symbolize the promise of money for college, training for the future,
and perhaps a large signing bonus. They are also gold handcuffs.
Once she joins she’s military property. There are no guarantees that
she’ll get the job she wants or that she won’t see combat.
The
outfit's long black cape shows the dark shadow that may follow Genevie
even after she leaves the service. This is the trauma experienced by
many vets—maybe from sexual abuse by male colleagues, haunting memories
and flashbacks of atrocities she witnessed, even having to kill.
Don't
let the military take your style! Death is not a fashion statement.
Photo: Ricky Chung. Model: Genevie Gold. Outfit: AFSC Youth in
Militarism Project.
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Who Profits From War? |
Dressed Fit to Overkill
Here
comes Kiah as Mother Earth Dressed Fit to Overkill. She’s wearing
over 23,000 nuclear warheads on her summery cotton dress. Each
one can destroy a city in a matter of minutes. 96% of them belong
to the U.S. and Russia.
And
those poofy little mushroom clouds in the oceans? They’re
American and Russian nuclear warheads deployed on ships and submarines.
Is there any hope for Mother
Earth to reduce this lethal stockpile? Absolutely! Notice
the alphabet design along the hemline.
CTBT is
the Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty. Since signing in 1996 the US,
Russia, Great Britain, France and China have discontinued all nuclear
testing.
NPT is the Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty.
This has kept the number of nations that possess nuclear weapons to
nine, well below the number experts thought would enter this crazy and
dangerous arms race.
START is the Strategic Arms
Reduction Treaty. In spring of 2010, the US and Russian Presidents
signed an updated agreement. It will reduce each nation’s
stockpile by 30%.
Women’s Action for New Directions
(WAND) has its roots in Nuclear Disarmament. National WAND and
Oregon WAND are working to ratify START and CTBT. With commitment
and negotiation, we can reduce 23,000 nuclear warheads to zero. Model:
Kiah Gibian, Designer: Susan Cundiff
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Banana Republic
Jasmine
is wearing a 2-piece silk Banana Republic outfit, with military accents
along the hem, the blouse, the cap, and shopping bag.
For
most young adults, “Banana Republic” is the upscale store at the
mall. But the name “Banana Republic” is a derogatory term for
poor Latin American countries with unstable governments strongly linked
to foreign military and business interests.
Guatemala is
one example. Many of Guatemala’s banana plantations were owned by
United Fruit Company, a U.S. corporation, which controlled the land and
paid extremely low wages.
When the democratically
elected president Jacobo Arbenz implemented land reform laws in 1951,
and demanded fair treatment for workers, lobbyists for United Fruit
convinced the C.I.A. that Arbenz posed a threat to the United
States. In 1954, U.S. troops helped to carry out a coup, which
installed a military dictator as the new president. United Fruit got
“their” land back and banana trade unions were banned.
So,
think about where you shop and what you buy into at the mall – you can
find military origins in the most unexpected places. Model: Jasmine
Gevatosky, Designer: Katherine Gorham |
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Military Cover-Up
Terry
is wearing this versatile black cape, designed by Gabriela Network.
It’s a show-stopper and practical too. It even looks fetching in the
rain. It's reversible, so that its underside serves as a military
cover. What is the “inside story?” How 'bout the amount of US military
aid that goes to the Philippines? Before 9/11, this was 30 million, but
now it’s ten times that PLUS military hardware. What a monstrous bulge
to hide!
The inside story also includes human rights
violations perpetrated by the Philippine Government for years,
including more than 800 extra-judicial killings and 127 enforced
disappearances since 2001. Thanks to the U.S. global war on terrorism,
over 300 political activists have been abducted and killed, including
the murder of 11 GABRIELA sisters.
Due
to the former colonization of the Philippines by Spain and then by the
United States, the national economy has been decimated, and relies on
migrant workers sending remittances from abroad. Many activists in the
Philippines, together with allies in the US and elsewhere are resisting
centuries of colonialism and military oppression to reveal their
strength, independence, and traditional mahlong beauty. Model: Terry
Bautista, Designers: Joy Duenas and Terry Bautista |
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MILITARISM AND GENDER: WWII TO IRAQ |
rosie the riveter
The
US military deployed women like Rose Will Monroe who worked as a
riveter on B-24 and B-29 bombers during World War II, when men went off
to war. She starred in a promotional film used to convince women they
had a patriotic duty to join the war effort on the "home front". "Rose
the Riveter" has become a feminist icon with her bandana, rolled-up
sleeves, and can-do attitude. When the war ended women were expected to
return to their everyday housework as men returned from the war.
Photo: Araceli Curiel. Model and Outfit: Sarah Block. |
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bikini
A
French fashion designer used the name "bikini" for his two-pieces
bathing suit after the US dropped an atomic bomb on Bikini Atoll in
1946. This dominated world headlines when his atom-sized bathing suit
debuted on the runway. Women have been deployed to entertain US troops
in bars and clubs for decades, many expected to wear a bikini--or
something skimpier. Although the bikini is now part of mainstream
fashion, the model chose to wear this bikini over her clothes. Photo:
Ricky Chung. Model: Shinako Oyakawa. Bathing Suit: Old Navy. |
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war bride
US
anti-immigrant acts from Chinese Exclusion to the 1935 Filipino
Repatration Act made it difficult for Asians to migrate to the US.
However, the US military presence in the Asia-Pacific during World War
II meant increased relations between US troops and local women. In
1945, Congress signed he War Brides Act. This somber bridal gown of
fleece camouflage with its short black veil symbolizes the fate facing
yung military brides -- that their soldier husbands may not return
home. Photo: Araceli Curiel. Model: Hikaru Kasahara. Outfit: Jay Kim. |
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Power Suit
Lindsey
is modeling the ultimate power suit, the real deal – a deceptively
simple cotton tee- shirt and pants ensemble, with combat boots and
accessories: a dog leash, cigarette, smirk, and “thumbs up”
gesture. She represents Lynndie England, a guard at Abu Ghraib
military prison near Baghdad, and symbol of a terrible new twist on
sexualized military violence, usually perpetrated by men against women.
Lynndie’s gender was deployed in the sexualized humiliation and
oppression of male prisoners – a kinder, gentler torturer? Her
race and nation placed her in the dominator role, with Arab men in the
victimized “female” role.
Lynndie
England was one of the few lower-ranking individuals apprehended and
tried for what the world denounced as war crimes, forbidden under the
Geneva Conventions, yet condoned and ordered by higher ups in the US
military chain of command. Model and designer: Lindsey Kerr |
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Box Woman
Katie’s
attention-grabbing green box outfit tells the story of Jamie Leigh
Jones, who was locked inside a storage-container by her employer,
Halliburton/KBR -- a military contractor in Iraq. Ms. Jones was drugged
and gang raped by co-workers at a camp in Baghdad. After getting to a
clinic for tests she was locked in the container, with no food, and
placed under armed guard.
U.S. Embassy officials and State Department folks rescued her after her congressman, Ted Poe, called Washington.
Katie
carries a cell phone for the sympathetic guard who gave Jamie Leigh a
phone that day to call her parents. Her clipboard represents Senator Al
Franken’s initiative to ban contracts to companies, like Halliburton,
that restrict employees from taking cases of workplace sexual assault
and discrimination to court.
Military men, as well as
contractors, also rape or assault women colleagues. Last July,
Congresswoman Jane Harman testified, “Women serving in the U.S.
military are more likely to be raped by a fellow soldier than killed by
enemy fire in Iraq.” Model and designer: Katie Hulse |
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direct action fashions |
Pink Protest
Leslie
is a member of CODEPINK, a woman-led peace and social justice movement
that strives for positive social change through creative protest and
nonviolent direct action. Codepink women are skilled thrift shop
hunters and experts in layering. Leslie wears pink yoga pants,
teamed with a pink ”Peace with Iran” T-shirt and toning skirt. Her
accessories include a Palestinian scarf, political buttons on her
father’s Freedom Riders heirloom vest, and a flower garland with
hot-pink “Obama Keep Your Promises” ribbons. Mocking the Bush
administration’s fear-based security alerts, CODEPINK is a spirited
call to wage peace. CODEPINK sisters have reclaimed pink as a
color of joyful female assertiveness, proud to stand out and speak up.
Model and designer: Leslie |
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Granny Peace Brigade
Here
Beverly is wearing an elegant and ever classic "Basic Black" outfit
designed by Laurie Arbeiter from the Critical Voice Collection.
Laurie's inspiration for “We Will Not Be Silent” goes back to the 1938
student movement in Munich, The White Rose Society. This simple
statement of resistance to Fascism and Nazism led a young student
Sophie Scholl and several classmates to the guillotine when they would
not recant.
Granny
Bev dresses up this outfit with photographs of grandchildren, reminding
us of our responsibilities to future generations. Other touches
that are particularly useful in Washington circles are the Power of the
Purse, the Fan of Peace, and attention-getting black balloons. Model
and Designer: Beverly Rice |
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Samoan Sister
Tereesa
wears a traditional dress from Tutuila (Samoa), made from the tentanus
plant. In the past, only daughters of high chiefs could wear this dress
and only on special occasions. Samoa had one language and
culture. The islands were divided by Britain and the US, and
renamed Western Samoa and American Samoa--these names tell the story
right there. The US wanted land for bases and still has a base in
American Samoa. Many Samoan youth serve in the US military.
Tereesa says: “Colonization and militarism have affected us badly. As
Samoan women we affirm our culture--and want to break out of the parts
that were inspired by militarism and colonialism." Model: Tereesa. |
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Tongan Peacemaker
Sina’s
dress represents women in the Tongan culture and is made of traditional
Tongan cloth from the mulberry tree. This culture has an emphasis on
service, honor, loyalty, and conformity, with a long warrior history
that lends itself to a pro-military stance. However, Tongan women
continue to break this militaristic mentality. This dress
represents Tongan women’s role as strong and powerful, peacemakers and
leaders. Model: Sina Uipi |
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Let’s Get Moving
Charlotte’s
deep maroon decorated dress represents love and emotion. It
symbolizes the many contradictions in our lives and in the world.
And it suggests harmony, despite complexity, in this coexistence of
colors and textures.
This dress
cherishes women, respects our bodies, and draws a connection between
our hearts, our lives, and the Earth. Charlotte is wearing her
heart on her sleeve – or rather, her arm band -- as a reminder to be
motivated and inspired.
Let’s
free ourselves and speak out. When people rally together and become a
part of something, we are stronger. We learn that people ARE making
changes, finding their voices, and doing things! We are creating life
and possibility in this very moment. Model and designer:
Charlotte Boesel |
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Reaching Peace
Youngju
is wearing a gorgeous full-length gown that brings military security
together with peace and forgiveness in a fusion of camouflage and color
that suggests hope, dynamism, and new possibilities.
The
green in her skirt is for harmony, blue offers sanctuary, yellow
enlightenment, red for passion and purple for realization and
understanding – all needed for peace-making.
The
heavy red hand on Youngju’s shoulder suggests destruction and
confusion, everything strange, uncomfortable, weakening, and hurtful
that is caused by war – including our assumptions, experiences, and
memories.
From
hem to pleats, to bodice to the final zip, this piece represents the
importance of awareness, rediscovery, and forgiveness in reaching
peace. Model and designer: Youngju Park |